As I'm sure you all know, it was Melb fashion week last week so their were lots of events and runways on. On Thursday I covered Yen's Runway 6 for Melbourne Street Fashion. It was a great show, and it was really good to see that most of the designers were taking their label in a new direction this season. Also, I was particularly impressed with the menswear.
Below is the article for LMFF:
Melbourne’s sweethearts ALPHA60 opened Yen’s Runway 6 – one of the most anticipated shows of the week. A label known for their penchant for a dark palette, they offered a collection – gasp! – devoid of black. Draped breezy silk garments in olive green and deep purple were the premise of the collection, with a bird eye and feather print used throughout. Guys were given a softer look for the coming season, with silk jumpers and cropped beige trenches. The inspired collection showed the breadth of the label and the duos’ courage to challenge their loyal customers to try something new.
Following ALPHA60, Carly Hunter also favoured loose-fitting silk designs, which ended up being a theme echoed throughout the evening. To toughen up the collection, Hunter used zip detailing on various pieces. A nice touch, but it’s a look that is likely to be reproduced by stores everywhere this season. Nevertheless, it was a sweet collection.
Next New Zealand label Nom*D brought impressive designs to the runway. In their signature style, dresses, jackets and tops were shredded and draped with lots of layering. Staying true to their vision, and their name, looks were accented with Little Red Riding like hoods and 1930’s inspired lace-up riding boots. Their tassel leather vests for both men and women were particularly amazing. Comparing this collection to their last, Nom*D have refined their aesthetic and are likely to win over a whole new set of fans.
Somewhere between wearable and art, Former RMIT graduates S!X showed the most fantastically massive (faux?) fur coats I have ever seen. Long asymmetric dresses were a popular look, particularly notable when donning the American and Australian flag. Like the other labels, S!X predicts silk will be a popular trend this season, offering dresses, trenches and trousers in the fabric. This collection will be favoured by those after a slightly more edgy look this season.
Next was New Zealand label Zambesi. Smart tailoring defined the collection, with suits, structured jackets and trousers on display. Not all Zambesi’s jackets were structured, with soft trenches on offer. Key pieces included a long-sleeve ribbed dress and a cage, cut-out jacket. Despite, a ‘last-season’ trend the jacket worked, looking sophisticated yet edgy. Having recently celebrated 30 years in the business, Zambesi have developed their technique and have only become more stylish with age.
Young label Limedrop took to the runway next. Threatening ALPHA60 by becoming Melbourne’s next darling label, the pair presented wearable pieces with a cloud theme used throughout the collection. Cloud tops paired with matching blazers looked great on the guys, while fabulously shiny black pants gave women a sexy, androgynous look.
What to say about Jack London? Not surprising, they offered youthful suits, pea coats, scarfs and skinny ties. Nothing new, but they are no doubt giving their customers what they want. Still, they showed that there is little excuse for Aussie guys to ever be wearing a shapeless, daggy suit.
Closing the night to Yothu Yindi’s “Treaty”, it appeared that TV, like ANT!PODiUM, were paying homage to their homeland. With not a body-con in sight, a prevalent look in their previous collection, Models strutted out in flattering, long-draped dresses, sexed-up by flesh-revealing knot features at the front and back. Never one to shy away from colour, the duo presented striking lime dresses and sheer blouses. Still inspired by their SS09/10, the Aztec-esc line print that defined their previous collection was again used on wearable tops and leggings.
To the cringe-worthy-yet-infectious bop of the Vengaboys’ “We Like to Party”, the crowd was taken back to the ‘90s with bustiers and knee-length dark denim skirts and dresses. A tiny, butt hugging floral denim two piece stood-out (for reasons other than the models perfect bum). Key pieces included the floral jumpsuit and print pants.
Runway 6 served as a perfect example – and as reminder amid the countless international fashion weeks this month – of the inspiring talent that we can find right here in Australia (and, of course, New Zealand).
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